Attaching straps!

Continuing from previous post:

Step 1 Adding strap end covers
To be done on both ends of each bag strap:
a) fold a 2 1/2 inch square (cut in the previous posting) in half... wrong sides together. Press!
b) Center the raw edge of this piece aligned with the raw edge end of a strap... and stitch 1/4 from edge.

Step 2 Folding and pinning strap end covers
To be done on both ends of each strap:
a) Flip the folded over/stitched fabric piece away from the strap end and press.
b) Fold the raw edges that extend beyond the strap sides to the back side and pin edges to hold. Here's 2 strap ends showing both front and back views.

Step 3 Marking bag for placement of straps
a) On top edge of the inside of the bag 'placemats'... mark about 5" in from outside edges.

Step 4 Stitching straps to bag
Center the strap end centered on and covering the 5" mark as shown and stitch to bag .. stitching the folded fabric piece side to side 2 to 3 times plus vertically at least once each side. Note : the webbing side of the strap faces the previous mark which is on the inside of the bag.


Now.. its a matter of putting the 2 placemats together and we'll be done. Next posting.

The Making of A Bag Strap

I know there must be a bunch of ways to finish straps for a bag. Here is just one:

Well first, I plan to use woven webbing as part of the strap that will provide stability and comfort and be 'backed by a soft fabric shield of sorts. About 1 1/2 yards of 1 inch webbing will work for our bag. We'll work with this later... I'm just letting you know what's coming here

Step 1 Strap Foundation
a. Cut a piece of strap fabric about 4 inches wide by half the length of purchased webbing...in this case 27".
b. Cut the same length in flannel but only 3 1/2 inches wide.
c. line up one long side of the flannel to the back side of the fabric and press together.

Step 2 Folding
a. Fold the lined up long side of 2 fabrics to the center of the flannel and press.

b. Fold over 1/4 " of the long side of the strap fabric and press.
c. Fold the rest of the flannel/fabric toward the center and stitch from end to end down the center.

Step 3 Add the webbing on the same side as just stitched, and stitch down both lengthwise edges. Since the webbing is just about an inch wide... and the fabric strap about 1 1/2 wide.... there will be about 1/4" of fabric extending beyond the webbing

Step 4 Squares to finish strap ends
Before that fabric gets put away.... cut two 2 1/2 inch squares for each strap..ie a total of four squares. These will be used later to finish the raw edged end of each strap. Thats up next posting.

From Painted Quilt to a Pocketed Handbag

I'm really starting to get ready for the upcoming Hawaii teaching cruise. I painted and quilted my plumeria memory class project a while back. Now it is time to turn it into something finished and useful... so a simple Hawaii bag will be the project across the next few blog entries.
Here's what the finished product will look like.... I like to know where I'm going before I start a road trip so you might want to know where we are going with this bag.


NOTE: Supply List info: If you are going to finish your Painted plumeria into a bag as in my sample, you will need:
Your painted plumeria backed and quilted to your liking
2 ribbed placemats ( I found mine at Target.. appx $3 each)
1 1/2 yards of woven webbing for straps (found in fabric and craft stores)
4" strip of sew on velcro
appx. 2 1/4 yards of double fold 2 1/4 inch binding for your plumeria mini quilt
1/4 yard flannel
1/4 yard of 'strap' fabric that will back the webbing for comfort.

1) First things first.. square up the quilted piece to a size a few inches smaller than a table placemat. I left NO excess batting hanging out in this trimming effort. Just square it up.

2) To keep life simple... I'm making the basic bag using 2 black ribbed placemats found at department stores like Target. Sorry the flash makes these look charcoal. They are really black!!! I think they were $3 each and I need 2. Before any real construction begins.... I centered and stitched companion black velcro strips ( about 3") directly opposite each other and centered on opposing mats. These strips are centered and placed about 3/4" below the long edge of the placemat. this will create a simple closure for the finished bag. Be certain to put matching thread in bobbin. From the unseen front view, the stitching seems to disappear into the ribbed mat.

3) Now to finish off the mini quilt with binding. I cut binding strips 2 1/4 inch wide.... I used my quarter inch foot to stitch folded ( doubled over) binding fabric to the front of the mini quilt first lining the raw edges of the binding up with the edge of the squared up mini quilt. ( This means from the front of the finished piece.... we will have only a 1/4 inch binding.)

4) A) Still with a quarter inch foot on the machine, I loosened the pressure foot downward pressure and began a slow/precise... hand roll and stitch in the ditch ( where binding meets quilt front). You could instead put on your walking foot for this step. I just find it easier to SEE what to do with the quarter inch foot.

4) B) NO Hand Stitching necessary on the back of the binding. The back of this mini quilt will become the inside of an outside bag pocket. You are looking here at the backside... a corner that miraculously mitered pretty well.

Next post.. we'll make straps.

We are blessed to be able to give back

I know I am a lucky woman for many reasons...1) to live in a country with freedom, 2) to be loved by my family and friends and most importantly by God, 3) to have a place to live right in nature's cradle, 4) to know and love artistic expression... and on and on. A little syrup sounding I know. With all this good fortune, we are asked to give back to those less fortunate. There are so many ways to give back. This weekend, The Shepard's Pantry ( www.shepardspantry.com), a Glendora, California food bank, is holding a fundraiser to support their efforts. I thought... why not donate my artistic services? So one silent auction winner will get a 16 x 20 pastel portrait of the image of their choosing...i.e. their family pet, a family member, or whomever they wish. Example here is an earlier portrait of grandson Max.


Click for closeup.

This should be a great silent auction as many other great items are on the block. I'm also placing for bid Thomas Kinkade's
"Garden of Prayer" framed lithograph. It's gorgeous! Now to get these items delivered to organizers.

Powerpoint is your friend!

Yesterday... I was busy getting the Corsair quilt designed for a U S Navy Fundraiser submitted to http://www.navyquilts.com. I mention the site because there is still time for you to participate if interested. (You don't have to donate your quilt... It's an option). Documenting the history/creation of a piece is important so I make a label that includes such info.... example: a photo, an artist's statement, info on materials, and contact info on the artist.

Powerpoint is a remarkably flexible program and it is 'perfect' for designing and printing a single slide as a quilt label.
Here's a photo of the label attached to the back of "The Incredible Corsair!"
Double Click on photo for closeup view. I print my 'slide' label on fabric as an 8 x 10. I also save the powerpoint label file as my own documented history of the finished piece. Happy Quilting!

Inking it up on Wearables

In visiting Southern California's El Camino Guild this week, a former student showed up wearing the cutest jacket with a pieced top/shoulders, and a white chenille torso. The fascinating thing was colored chenille areas. She had used the Tsukineko pigment ink I love to color her cotton chenille. Too cute! These pigment inks like natural fiber, so they are great for wearables and home decorating as well as quilting. Other ink friendly things are wood (e.g. you might stain buttons) and leather ( Now that would be fun on a belt!)

Okay... this quilter loves lime green. Works for me. So do I!

Heading South but here's some hints for the day

Hi all.... am visiting El Camino Guild for a couple days but thought I'd prepare a post of a few hints I noted as I work on the Naval Aviation piece.
1... When winding monofilament on a bobbin..... try:
a. winding slower than normal to minimize stretching and later potential for breakage.
b. fill only 2/3 to 3/4 full.... i.e. see air between the edge of the wound thread and the bobbin winder stop. Filling it all the way full will make it difficult to get in the bobbin case.

2. If you have trouble loading and guiding lead monofilament thread into your bobbin case.. try this:
a. Hold the thread filled bobbin in your hand while you 'thread' the bobbin case with your other hand
b. Rewind the few inches of bobbin thread onto the bobbin and then drop the bobbin in with the thread already 'threaded' in step 1

3. a. What do you do with pin holes that don't go away???
b. Mist them with clear water. The holes will 'plump' up and diminish!
I feel like "Hints from Heloise" Happy quilting!